The topic of training horses to be comfortable with routine tasks that must be done by a veterinarian came up on a facebook page I am on. We were asked to create a training plan for one of the many vetting tasks that horses need to be comfortable with. You can use shaping (where the horse willing moves towards the object as in receiving an injection), systematic desensitization (teaching the horse that what they perceive as a threat is a non-issue) and counter conditioning (horse learns to feel good about doing the behavior that they previously have negative feelings about) for any behavior. Below, I outline the steps needed as an example. Word has it, that if a horse is easy to handle, the veterinarian will come much more quickly and willingly (and may even charge less for the visit because it takes less time and is less dangerous).
Giving Eye Medications
Goal: Horse stands still for one minute with head at a height that is confortable for veterinarian to place eye medication in each eye and clean excess off.
Here are the objective behaviors at each level:
Horse stands still for 30 seconds with person standing on each side of head
Horse stands still with head held at required height for 30 seconds on each side
Desensitize horse to having hand come closer and closer to eye (start far away and move incrementally closer and retreat hand between each pass. c/t for staying calm, no flinching etc)
Repeat for other eye
Desensitize horse to clean finger gently touching both corners of both eyes with no flinching. (work your way touching from cheek & neck towards eye)
Desensitize horse to having eye drop bottle (or ointment tube) come closer and closer to eye (no contact though, as this contaminates the bottle tip) from several practical angles.
Put above behaviors together two by two, then in threes, etc until entire process is complete
Add a cue (to prepare horse for procedure)
Desensitize horse to tissue or cloth being rubbed around eyes (for excess goop)
Retrain from beginning with several strangers
A tip: warm up the drops or tube to body temp (with your hands) before applying. Horse will accept this better than cold drops or ointment.
Also if an ointment is used, if may be safer if you apply the ointment to your clean finger tip, then apply it to horse from there. There have been eye injuries sustained when the tip was applied directly to the eye.
What other routine veterinary procedures would it be helpful to train your horse to willingly do?
Vaccinations
Internasal injections
Opening mouth (for tooth insopection, tubing etc)
Hoof clipping
Soaking feet in a bucket for infection
Clicker Training Levels for Horses
Tuesday, November 30, 2010
Steps to Train a Horse to Accepting Eye Drops or Ointment
Here are the objective behaviors at each level:
Thursday, November 11, 2010
Ground Work Part C
Ground Work Part C | ||||||
Training Chart | Level 1 | Level 2 | Level 3 | Level 4 | Level 5 | Continuing ed |
Homework | Explain how you can use distance to help a fearful horse | Explain what arousal is in horses and 5 behaviors that tells you your horse is in a state of high level of arousal. | Make a list of all the reinforces you can think of for your horse and prioritize them | none | List 3 worst behaviors of your own horse and how you plan on improving them | none |
m) Backing | Backing 10 steps with you and a friend standing in front, 2 cues | Backing 3 steps with you and friend standing behind horse, 1 cue | Backing while 4 people stand beside horse | Backing into a narrow channel or small enclosure | Backs 3 steps while saddled, 2 cues | none |
n) Cavaletti | Step over pole on ground, no cue | Step over jump raised 6 inches, body cue only, | Jump over 3 different types of jumps on raised 18 inches, 1 cue each, c/t for each jump | Jump over winged bar jump raised over 18 inches, 1 cue | Jump over 18 inch blind jump, 1 cue | Keep varying the appearance of the jump, (such as half barrel and full barrel on side) increase the height and add other jumps one at a time at least 2 horse lengths apart. Add stepping over through and onto other obstacles, including water |
o) Collection (weight on hide legs while moving) | Riding out-head and neck free, straight line | Ride a 60 foot diameter circle with head and neck free | Capture back end thrusts while riding up slope | Flexion of poll with relaxed head | Move forward 10 paces with collected back end, flexion of poll, relaxed head, head and neck free on level ground. | Add distance |
p) Come | Turns head towards you voluntarily | Returns to you on 2 cues from 10 feet away in small enclosure no larger than 60 feet diameter, no distractions | comes from 50 feet away in pen 100 feet or larger, 2 cues, 1 mild distraction | Comes away from feed trough 100 feet away, one cue | Comes from 100 yards away through lush grass and away from horse buddies, two cues | Comes from further away, more distractions, different locations |
q) Directionals | Left right in front of horse two cues | Left right in front of horse one cue | Left right from lead position on right and left | Horse turns left when one cue given from behind | Horse turns right when one cue is given from behind | Horse turns right, then left when you use long lines as cue from behind horse |
r) Distance | Around a garbage can, 2 Q's | Around a post 10 feet, 1 cue | Around a post 30 feet, 1 cue | Around a large object 50 feet away 1 cue | Around 2 barrels situated 30 feet apart | Increase distance and vary the objects you send the horse around. |
s) Gate zen | Stands calmly on inside of open gate for 1 minute, 2 cues | Stands calmly until cued to go through gate. Turns back to handler after being cued to exit open gate. | Stands calmly on outside of open gate for 30 seconds, 2 cues | Stands calmly for 30 seconds, goes through gate on cue, turns back to handler. Goes back through gate, turns back to handler and allows handler to close gate. | Same as level 4 but with 2 distractions | Continue adding distractions. |
t) Ground Driving | Accepts Shoulder or Harness | Drags light pole in a straight line for 20 feet with 2 cues | Drags heavy pole 50 feet 2 cues | Drags noisy light load with a left and a right turn in 100 feet, as many cues as needed | Drags noisy heavy load through 200 foot obstacle course, as many cues as needed | Add distance, distractions, progress to carting |
u) Handling | Accepts blanket or rug | Calmly accepts eye medications given by drops or ointment | Stands with foot in bucket of water for 5 minutes, 2 cues | Calmly allows farrier to clean and trim all 4 feet | Calmly allows veterinarian to examine ears, eyes, mouth, feet, & give innoculations | Allows vet to take rectal temperature, give internasal vaccines, give oral medication etc. |
v) Lunging (Circling) | Follows a target stick in a 6 foot 360 degree circle around you on lead at a walk | Circles you on a 12 foot lunge line, at a walk no stick, two cues | Circles on a 30 foot lunge line, at a trot as many cues as needed | Circles on a 30 foot lunge line, at a trot, slows on cue and changes direction by turning into you and trots again. Changes direction again. Repeat. As many cues as needed. | As level 4 but 3 complete circles, adding speed, slowing and stops. As many cues as needed. | Add distractions, speed changes, duration |
w) Movement | Trot 2 cues | Lope 2 cues | Switching between 2 speeds | Switching between stop, walk, trot and lope in all combinations. | none | none |
x) On the Road | none | none | Level 1 Part A & B away from home 5 new locations | Level 2 Part A & B away from home 5 new locations | Level 3 Part A & B away from home 5 new locations | Level 4 & 5 Part A & B away from home 5 locations |
y) Rein | Horse calmly accepts reins attached to sides of halter and placed over neck | Horse calmly accepts reins thrown over horse's head | Horse walking 50 feet straight with reins attached to halter over neck | Horse responds to light physical cue to turn left, the right on long line from behind horse | Horse responds to long line cue held by handler walking behind horse for 200 feet, making 3 repetitions of alternating right and left turns | none |
z) Retrieve | none | Nose target 5 safe objects 1 cue each | Hold 3 objects in mouth one at a time | Pick up 3 objects from ground | Retrieve 3 objects from 10 feet away | Pick up 1 object off ground and give to rider in saddle |
aa) Saddle | none | Blanket on back | Blanket, small saddle with stirrups | Accept full saddle to placed on and cinched up, saddle the only cue | Accept rider's full weight sitting on saddle, stepping stirrup (stepping on stirrups only first, then more) | Go on to In Saddle Work |
bb) Side passing (side step) | none | Front end side step 2 steps, 2 cues | Back end side step 2 steps, 1 cue | Both front and back end side step 4 steps | Horse sidesteps in opposite direction | Continue adding number of steps and mix with forward , then backward movement |
cc) Trailering | Walks across plywood sheet no cues | Steps onto plywood sheet laying on packing crates (raised 4 inches off ground), 2 cues | Steps up into trailer (all windows and doors open) and is led through | Step into and stand in open trailer for 30 seconds, 2 cues | Stand in closed trailer for two minutes | Add start and stop, movement for 30 seconds on upwards and increase duration slowly. Load with a buddy, load with a unfamiliar horse. May also be used to teach a horse that has never been in a small space. |
dd) Trick | none | Captured trick | Shaped trick | Series of 3 tricks, one cue per trick, one reward for series of 3 tricks | Sequence of 7 tricks, one cue per trick and one reward for whole series | Continue chaining more behaviors together (might be a series of jumps or obstacles etc) |
Groundwork Part B
Ground Work Part B | ||||||
Training Chart | Level 1 | Level 2 | Level 3 | Level 4 | Level 5 | Continuing ed |
Homework | 5 things you hope to accomplish by training with the levels program | Describe 4 legs of OC plus Extinction, define reinforce and punish | 10 reasons a horse might not perfrom a behavior | Define default behavior and how to achieve it | Research the meaning of systematic desensitization and counter conditioning | |
f) Accepting Strangers | stranger stroking and feeding | stranger directing back up (carrying large light object) | stranger dressed on odd clothing grooming horse | stranger picking up feet, looking in mouth | group of 5 strangers walking around horse | Continue to introduce new people of all sizes to your horse, add sounds, speed of movement |
g) Distractions | Stand calmly as car or motorbike passes | Walk calmly as bicycle passes | Walk past a herd of cows or deer | Stays calm in presence of tarps flapping in the wind | Successfully learns 2 simple behaviors from Part A while in while in presence of a medium level distraction (for your horse) | Practice with large farm machinery, goats, known dogs, kids running and yelling, strange dogs running out at you etc. |
h) Following on loose lead | Releases light pressure on lead rope, no cue | Takes 10 steps with no pressure from lead rope, 1 cue | Leads off handler left side with loose lead rope for 50 feet, 1 cue | Leads off handler right side with loose lead for 50 feet, 1 cue | Follows handler in figure 8 around 2 barrels placed 30 feet apart, 1 cue (repeat on right side) | Set up obstacle course and walk horse around them asking for more obstacles and greater distances separately before combining. Walk through narrow channels. Train walking one person, two horses (one on each side). Speed changes, through dorrways and gates, in a tight circle. |
i) Following off lead-liberty | Stands stationary with you for 30 seconds (halter optional) | Takes 10 steps with you, cue you move forward or back | Leads off handler left side for 50 feet, 1 cue | Leads off handler right side for 50 feet, 1 cue | Follows handler in figure 8 around 2 barrels placed 30 feet apart, 1 cue (repeat on right side) | Add stepping backward at liberty |
j) Handling | Lift each foot on 1 cue, for 15 seconds | Calmly accepts dewormer in mouth, delivered by you | Stands calmly as you hose down whole body incl legs and feet, all cues | Move hindquarters to side, 2 cues repeat with shoulder | Open mouth in front of stranger to look at teeth on 1 cue | Calmly accepts sheath or udder cleaning |
k) Starting and Stopping | Starting 2 cues | Whoa 2 cues | Horse responds to alternating start and whoa cues at slow walk and fast walk | Starting 1 cue (test 3 different cue options) | Whoa 1 cue (test 3 different cue option) | none |
l) Stationary Stand | Stand relaxed 2 cues | Stand 10 seconds 2 cues | Stand one minute | Stand 15 min lead tied, 1 mild distraction, 20 feet away | Stand 15 minutes lead dropped, 2 mild distractions | More time, more locations, more distractions |
Labels:
horse training groundwork part B
Groundwork Part A Basic Behaviors
What Skills Do My Horse & I Need to Start the Program?
What Skills Do My Horse and I Need to Start the Program?
This program assumes that you and horse have some basis skills:
Trainer needs:
*A basic ability to read your horse and know when he’s approaching his threshold for ability to focus, fear, arousal etc and know when it may become a seafety issue for you.
*Safety is the most important aspect when training a horse so plan your lessons accordingly and keep it in mind at all times. If the situation changes, be prepared to get yourself to safety and forget the lesson.
*You are comfortable around horses and are physically able to train the behaviors in the program or get help to do so.
*Be able to create a quiet and relatively distraction-free environment to train new behaviors. (corner of a barn, round pen etc)
*That you know at least 3 food rewards he enjoys and can tolerate without stomach upset and 2 other reinforcers such as neck scratch etc.
Horse Needs:
*Horse is comfortable around most people, other common animals in your environment and normal events in his stall, barn and paddock.
*Shows predictable, safe behaviors in the same environment.
*Can safely eat food from your hand.
*Is respectful of your personal space when in a pen with him (does not run into you or push you around).
Any of the above behaviors that are an issue with your horse need to be directly addressed first and made a priority. Call in professional help, if you don’t have the skills to address them yourself. Have your horse assessed to see if he is safe to work with. Find out his limitations and work within them.
What if My Horse Does Not Have all the Basic Skills?
If your horse does not have the skills listed above, it does not mean you cannot train him with this program, it just means you will have to take extra care in choosing the physical space you train in-one with a barrier such as a fence or gate between you and him, for example.
Also carefully choose which behaviors you start with. Any of the behaviors that can be taught from behind a fence are good ones to start with. As you train each behavior (while working on his other issues) and he becomes more comfortable with you and trusts you, and you feel that you are safe with him, you can progress carefully to training easy behaviors without physical barriers. These basic skills become the foundation for other behaviors.
The Clicker Training Levels Program for Horses has Three Groundwork parts A though C, and one Saddlework part. If you want to train a behavior in Part B but are not yet done all of Part A yet, you need to make sure that prerequisite behaviors have been trained from part A to the level you need them for part B behavior. This will be indicated in the description for each behavior. The same applies for Part C. Groundwork behaviors are taught before moving into the saddle (Part D). This is so your horse has a firm understand ing of the behaviors with you on the ground and speeds his learning (and your control) when you get in the saddle.
Should I Retrain all the Behaviors from Scratch?
You may find it valuable to train your horse all the behaviors from the beginning, even if he has been taught some or all of them using other methods. The more different ways you train a behavior, the better he will understand what you want and be able to perform them.
Working this process also allows you to learn how to make the best use of the clicker. Working through the entire process with at least one horse may also add to your training knowledge & experience as well. You may find that the clicker allows you to train to a higher level of precision in each behavior than your previous methods.
What If I want to Pick and Choose Behaviors to Train?
If your horse has some of the skills, but not others, you can choose to do only the behaviors he needs to learn. It is, however, a very good exercise to teach each behavior from the beginning as you will learn how to train that behavior using the clicker.
Choose a behavior and test your horse to see if he is able to do each level for that behavior and start training from his highest level of success. If you are going to do this option, it is recommended that you read all the previous levels for that behavior so you will know how to apply the training to other behaviors later on or do any remedial work should it be required.
How do I test to see if my horse knows the behaviors already?
Start with the first training session of the day (if you do more than one).
Get him set up for training (with clicker and trat pouch ready, quiet training environment) and cue the behavior as described. If he does it the first time you cue, he passes. If not, he needs more training at the previous level. Your can train him that day and test him cold the next dayif you are eager to move ahead in the levels. If you keep testing and he passes the second time, this becomes part of your training session. It's that simple.
This program assumes that you and horse have some basis skills:
Trainer needs:
*A basic ability to read your horse and know when he’s approaching his threshold for ability to focus, fear, arousal etc and know when it may become a seafety issue for you.
*Safety is the most important aspect when training a horse so plan your lessons accordingly and keep it in mind at all times. If the situation changes, be prepared to get yourself to safety and forget the lesson.
*You are comfortable around horses and are physically able to train the behaviors in the program or get help to do so.
*Be able to create a quiet and relatively distraction-free environment to train new behaviors. (corner of a barn, round pen etc)
*That you know at least 3 food rewards he enjoys and can tolerate without stomach upset and 2 other reinforcers such as neck scratch etc.
Horse Needs:
*Horse is comfortable around most people, other common animals in your environment and normal events in his stall, barn and paddock.
*Shows predictable, safe behaviors in the same environment.
*Can safely eat food from your hand.
*Is respectful of your personal space when in a pen with him (does not run into you or push you around).
Any of the above behaviors that are an issue with your horse need to be directly addressed first and made a priority. Call in professional help, if you don’t have the skills to address them yourself. Have your horse assessed to see if he is safe to work with. Find out his limitations and work within them.
What if My Horse Does Not Have all the Basic Skills?
If your horse does not have the skills listed above, it does not mean you cannot train him with this program, it just means you will have to take extra care in choosing the physical space you train in-one with a barrier such as a fence or gate between you and him, for example.
Also carefully choose which behaviors you start with. Any of the behaviors that can be taught from behind a fence are good ones to start with. As you train each behavior (while working on his other issues) and he becomes more comfortable with you and trusts you, and you feel that you are safe with him, you can progress carefully to training easy behaviors without physical barriers. These basic skills become the foundation for other behaviors.
The Clicker Training Levels Program for Horses has Three Groundwork parts A though C, and one Saddlework part. If you want to train a behavior in Part B but are not yet done all of Part A yet, you need to make sure that prerequisite behaviors have been trained from part A to the level you need them for part B behavior. This will be indicated in the description for each behavior. The same applies for Part C. Groundwork behaviors are taught before moving into the saddle (Part D). This is so your horse has a firm understand ing of the behaviors with you on the ground and speeds his learning (and your control) when you get in the saddle.
Should I Retrain all the Behaviors from Scratch?
You may find it valuable to train your horse all the behaviors from the beginning, even if he has been taught some or all of them using other methods. The more different ways you train a behavior, the better he will understand what you want and be able to perform them.
Working this process also allows you to learn how to make the best use of the clicker. Working through the entire process with at least one horse may also add to your training knowledge & experience as well. You may find that the clicker allows you to train to a higher level of precision in each behavior than your previous methods.
What If I want to Pick and Choose Behaviors to Train?
If your horse has some of the skills, but not others, you can choose to do only the behaviors he needs to learn. It is, however, a very good exercise to teach each behavior from the beginning as you will learn how to train that behavior using the clicker.
Choose a behavior and test your horse to see if he is able to do each level for that behavior and start training from his highest level of success. If you are going to do this option, it is recommended that you read all the previous levels for that behavior so you will know how to apply the training to other behaviors later on or do any remedial work should it be required.
How do I test to see if my horse knows the behaviors already?
Start with the first training session of the day (if you do more than one).
Get him set up for training (with clicker and trat pouch ready, quiet training environment) and cue the behavior as described. If he does it the first time you cue, he passes. If not, he needs more training at the previous level. Your can train him that day and test him cold the next dayif you are eager to move ahead in the levels. If you keep testing and he passes the second time, this becomes part of your training session. It's that simple.
Introduction to Horse Clicker Training Levels
Modeled after Sue Ailsby's Training Levels for Dogs (old version), this program provides a basic framework to train a horse foundation behaviors for life and sport.
It is designed to help the trainer learn how to train a horse using the clicker, as well as train the horse. You'll find that many of the behaviors at each level reinforce each other. For example there are several behaviors that focus on increasing duration at level 3. This helps the horse to learn the concept more easily as he is getting multiple exposures to that concept through various behaviors.
It is intended to be a starting point for horses to fill in any gaps in existing training foundation skills or to provide a framework for those new to clicker training. From here, you can advance and train in any discipline that you and your horse enjoy as you will have a good partnership with your horse and will know how to train almost any behavior you dream up and your horse will be a willing partner in the process. .
I make no claims in regards to the effectiveness of this program, nor claim any liability for its use. I am putting it out there as a framework of ideas for horse clicker trainers wanting some structure for their training. Use it how you want.
I found Sue's program incredibly useful for training my own dogs (who I have and plan to compete with in a variety of dog sports), foster dogs and even visiting dogs.
The program has 4 parts:
Groundwork Part A -basic behaviors to start with
Groundwork Part B-more complex behaviors to continue training
Groundwork Part C- higher level behaviors
Saddlework Part D-transitions groundwork behaviors into the saddle (as appropriate)
Each part has 5 levels plus continuing education.
Level 1 is an easy behavior to get, level two will take a few more steps. Level 3 and up will take many more training sessions to achieve and need to be broken down further into smaller steps as you train. Each level are (mostly) goals in the process of training a more complex behavior by level 5.
Homework section assures that you the trainer understand the concepts you are applying & Handling section ensures the horse is getting continuous exposure to being handled. That is why they are in all parts of groundwork.
Continuing Education offers ideas of how to generalize the behavior and apply the behaviors in real life.
On the Road means that you take your horse to a less familiar place to train that level.
Following this post is a quick summary of each behavior and the goals for each level in tabel form. These are simply goals for each level and are part of the development of each behavior. Links will be added over time to explain how to train to each goal for that level. Food Zen and Targeting have already been written up as examples.
At the moment, I am still evaluating the basic framework to ensure the program is practical and applicable to all horses, be they young, rescued or retired. If you have suggestions or questions, please ask.
As any any good horseman knows, start with the groundwork, spend time perfecting behaviors on the ground and you will reap huge rewards when in the saddle. There are no short cuts in training, only re-training.
If you video tape your progress as you work through this and would like to let me know of a link to your video, I'd love to add them to the blog under each behavior training description. This would be a great to have this resource for everyone to see the training process as well as see the goal for each level.
In case you are wondering why I am doing this. I am helping my sister train her horse with the clicker and the process of designing a program from one species (dogs) to another (horses) helps me to see how the principles apply across the board. As a zoologist and teacher (who uses a form of clicker training with children (called TAG Teaching), this fascinates me!
I also like to promote humane reward-based training for all animals and would like to put this program forward as a tribute to Sue Ailsby who so freely shares her knowledge and skill of both dogs and clicker training by creating the original 'Training Levels' for dogs.
Donna Hill B.Sc. B.Ed. CHI
Nanaimo, BC Canada Nov. 2010
It is designed to help the trainer learn how to train a horse using the clicker, as well as train the horse. You'll find that many of the behaviors at each level reinforce each other. For example there are several behaviors that focus on increasing duration at level 3. This helps the horse to learn the concept more easily as he is getting multiple exposures to that concept through various behaviors.
It is intended to be a starting point for horses to fill in any gaps in existing training foundation skills or to provide a framework for those new to clicker training. From here, you can advance and train in any discipline that you and your horse enjoy as you will have a good partnership with your horse and will know how to train almost any behavior you dream up and your horse will be a willing partner in the process. .
I make no claims in regards to the effectiveness of this program, nor claim any liability for its use. I am putting it out there as a framework of ideas for horse clicker trainers wanting some structure for their training. Use it how you want.
I found Sue's program incredibly useful for training my own dogs (who I have and plan to compete with in a variety of dog sports), foster dogs and even visiting dogs.
The program has 4 parts:
Groundwork Part A -basic behaviors to start with
Groundwork Part B-more complex behaviors to continue training
Groundwork Part C- higher level behaviors
Saddlework Part D-transitions groundwork behaviors into the saddle (as appropriate)
Each part has 5 levels plus continuing education.
Level 1 is an easy behavior to get, level two will take a few more steps. Level 3 and up will take many more training sessions to achieve and need to be broken down further into smaller steps as you train. Each level are (mostly) goals in the process of training a more complex behavior by level 5.
Homework section assures that you the trainer understand the concepts you are applying & Handling section ensures the horse is getting continuous exposure to being handled. That is why they are in all parts of groundwork.
Continuing Education offers ideas of how to generalize the behavior and apply the behaviors in real life.
On the Road means that you take your horse to a less familiar place to train that level.
Following this post is a quick summary of each behavior and the goals for each level in tabel form. These are simply goals for each level and are part of the development of each behavior. Links will be added over time to explain how to train to each goal for that level. Food Zen and Targeting have already been written up as examples.
At the moment, I am still evaluating the basic framework to ensure the program is practical and applicable to all horses, be they young, rescued or retired. If you have suggestions or questions, please ask.
As any any good horseman knows, start with the groundwork, spend time perfecting behaviors on the ground and you will reap huge rewards when in the saddle. There are no short cuts in training, only re-training.
If you video tape your progress as you work through this and would like to let me know of a link to your video, I'd love to add them to the blog under each behavior training description. This would be a great to have this resource for everyone to see the training process as well as see the goal for each level.
In case you are wondering why I am doing this. I am helping my sister train her horse with the clicker and the process of designing a program from one species (dogs) to another (horses) helps me to see how the principles apply across the board. As a zoologist and teacher (who uses a form of clicker training with children (called TAG Teaching), this fascinates me!
I also like to promote humane reward-based training for all animals and would like to put this program forward as a tribute to Sue Ailsby who so freely shares her knowledge and skill of both dogs and clicker training by creating the original 'Training Levels' for dogs.
Donna Hill B.Sc. B.Ed. CHI
Nanaimo, BC Canada Nov. 2010
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